How to Recognize Genuine Mother of Pearl

Mother of pearl is a naturally beautiful material, treasured for its soft iridescent glow. You’ll find it used in fine jewelry, bridal accessories, musical instruments, and elegant decorative objects.

I’m Elisabetta Sebastio, a jewelry designer specialized in handcrafted bridal and occasion pieces. One of the questions I receive most often is: “How can I tell if a piece is made with real mother of pearl?”

Today, I’d love to guide you through a few practical ways to recognize it.

How to Identify Mother of Pearl in Person

Visual Appearance

• Natural Iridescence – Real mother of pearl reflects light in soft, shifting tones. This play of color is very hard to imitate with synthetic materials.
• Color – It ranges from creamy white to soft grey, with possible hints of pink, gold, blue, or green depending on the light.

Touch

• Cool to the Touch – As a natural substance (formed inside shells), it feels cool and smooth, much like glass or ceramic. If you’ve ever held real pearls, the sensation is very similar.
• Smooth but not slippery – It has a polished surface, but doesn’t feel plasticky. There’s a delicate firmness to it.

Sound

If you gently tap two pieces together, real mother of pearl has a denser, more subtle sound – not hollow or plastic-like.

Under Magnification

• Layered Structure – With a magnifying glass, you may notice a natural layered effect, almost like tiny overlapping scales. This structure is nearly impossible to replicate in resin or plastic imitations.

The Hot Needle Test (Only if absolutely necessary!)

This is a destructive test, so I don’t recommend it unless you’re absolutely unsure and can test a hidden area.

If you touch a heated needle to mother of pearl, it will not melt or give off any smell – unlike plastic imitations, which will melt and smell of chemicals.
⚠️ Note: This may leave a mark – use only with extreme caution.

Provenance Matters

If a material comes from a high-quality artisan source or a trusted professional, it’s far more likely to be authentic.

Whenever a professional (whether an artisan like myself or a general retailer) provides a written statement about the authenticity of a material – such as claiming something is real mother of pearl – they take on a specific legal responsibility.

If this statement is false, it can legally be considered consumer fraud.

That’s why I always describe my materials with absolute honesty. Every bride who chooses one of my pieces deserves to feel confident and protected in her purchase.

Curious to see what I create?
Take a look at my world of handcrafted bridal jewelry:
🌸 Visit my website – Elisabetta Sebastio for inspiration and to explore my one-of-a-kind designs.